Pre-dawn calls and hard beds -- S. Korea's spiritual tourism

Most Popular Videos

As a paying guest at Mihwangsa, there's no need to book a morning wake-up call.

It's provided well before sunrise, at 4:00 am to be precise... and it isn't optional.

Instead of a phone call -- none of the rooms have phones -- guests are roused by a monk walking past their rooms, knocking on a wooden block to call them for a round of pre-breakfast chanting and meditation.

The dozen guests who make their sleepy way to the temple's main hall -- clad in identical grey loose-fitting outfits -- are all taking part in Mihwangsa's Templestay programme.

Ranging from middle school students to housewives in their late 30s, and including Koreans and foreigners, they were attracted by what has become a thriving mini-tourist industry in temples across South Korea.

"I wanted to be isolated in the mountains while experiencing the traditional life," said Helena Ranneberg, a Danish web consultant.

Mihwangsa temple is undoubtedly isolated, located halfway up a mountain in coastal Haenam county around 320 kilometers (200 miles) southwest of Seoul.

The Templestay programme has its unlikely origins in the 2002 football World Cup which was co-hosted by South Korea and Japan.

When the government made a general appeal for help in overcoming a shortage of hotel accommodation, the Jogye Order, the country's largest Buddhism sect, saw an opportunity and began opening its temples to short-term paying guests.

"There were shared voices within Buddhism that we needed to interact with the outside world by opening ourselves to the public," said Kumgang, the head monk of Mihwangsa.

The rates are relatively cheap, ranging from 50,000-80,000 won ($45-$75) a night, and the amenities are spartan compared to any mainstream hotel.

Guests are obliged to sleep on thin cotton mattresses on a hardwood floor, eat vegetarian food and participate in classes on Buddhism, morning meditation and evening chanting of scriptures -- all led by monks.

"The most difficult part for me was to sit and lie on the wooden floor," confessed Ranneberg. "I just couldn't sleep at night."

In their free time, they can hike in the surrounding area, read books, drink tea and participate in much of the temple's daily life. Drinking and smoking are forbidden and mobile phone use actively discouraged.

"Other than ceremonies, I can relax, drink tea with the monks and have discussions on life... It's all I could wish for," said Park Seung-Kyung, a housewife from Gwangju who had booked in for three days.

None of the monks at Mihwangsa speak English, but a lay Buddhist living in the temple helps interpret for foreign guests.

For Ranneberg, the language barrier was not an issue.

"Before dawn, I had time on my own in complete darkness, just sitting in front of the traditional architecture... And that really was something different, something I would never be able to experience anywhere else," she said.

Since the programme began a decade ago, the number of participating temples has risen from 33 to 109 and close to two million people have stayed in them.

In 2011, the number of Templestay guests was 212,437, of which around 12 percent were foreigners.

Since 2004 the government has provided subsidies totalling around $100 million to the programme which the government sees as a force for promoting traditional Korean culture.

But not everybody is happy.

Last year, the Korean Association of Church Communication issued a statement arguing that there was "room for conflict" in the government subsidising a programme associated with one particular religion.

"There clearly is a problem with financially supporting missionary events by specific religion," it said.

The official Templestay website stresses that the programme is mainly aimed at providing a cultural experience, rather than an effort to promote religious belief.

Tensions between Buddhism and the Christian Church have deep roots in South Korea.

Historically the dominant religion, Buddhism has been eclipsed by Christianity which grew at an incredible pace in the 20th century, especially after the 1950-53 Korean War.

Thirty percent of the population describe themselves as Christian, making South Korea one of the most Christian countries in Asia, ranking third after the traditionally Catholic Philippines and East Timor.

Buddhists now comprise a little over 20 percent, and there is some resentment in the Buddhist community over South Korea's embrace of a particularly evangelical style of Christianity that places a strong emphasis on proselytising and missionary work.

The Jogye Order plans to designate more temples as Templestay hosts next year and head monk Kumgang says Mihwangsa will continue to participate in the programme.

"Templestay can provide people who live a busy life with a place to relax and refresh... like a realm of peace and spiritual growth," he said.

Editor’s note:Yahoo! Philippines encourages responsible comments that add dimension to the discussion. No bashing or hate speech, please. You can express your opinion without slamming others or making derogatory remarks.

  • Olongapo bet Angelee delos Reyes is Miss Philippines-Earth

    Olongapo bet Angelee delos Reyes is Miss Philippines-Earth

    Yahoo! Southeast Asia Newsroom - 4 hours ago
    Olongapo bet Angelee delos Reyes is Miss Philippines-Earth

    Twenty five year old Angelee delos Reyes of Olongapo City is crowned Miss Philippines-Earth 2013.

  • Ai Ai admits marriage is over

    Ai Ai admits marriage is over

    Yahoo! Southeast Asia Newsroom - 5 hours ago
    Ai Ai admits marriage is over

    Less than a month after their civil wedding in Las Vegas on April 3, Ai Ai delas Alas and businessman Jed Salang have split up.

  • More to go? GMA cancels 2 Sunday shows

    More to go? GMA cancels 2 Sunday shows

    Yahoo! Southeast Asia Newsroom - 17 hours ago
    More to go? GMA cancels 2 Sunday shows

    GMA has been spring-cleaning its program line-up. The Kapuso Network has cancelled H.O.T TV and Party Pilipinas in the Sunday afternoon block in just three weeks, and a source told Yahoo! Philippines youth-oriented "Teen Gen" is scheduled for cancellation by end of June.

  • Willie's camp: P90 million contract is absurd

    Willie's camp: P90 million contract is absurd

    Yahoo! Southeast Asia Newsroom - 18 hours ago
    Willie's camp: P90 million contract is absurd

    "P90 million? That's absurd, " Wowowillie business unit head Jay Montelibano said Friday when Yahoo! Philippines OMG! reached him for comment about a gossip blog entry on the alleged botched contract between TV5 and Willie Revillame.

  • Ryzza Mae asks PNoy: Bakit wala ka pa pong asawa?

    Ryzza Mae asks PNoy: Bakit wala ka pa pong asawa?

    Yahoo! Southeast Asia Newsroom - 18 hours ago
    Ryzza Mae asks PNoy: Bakit wala ka pa pong asawa?

    At age 7, she may be the youngest co-host of Eat Bulaga, but Ryzza Mae Dizon is the only one with a self-titled show. And yes, only a handful of established names like Kris Aquino, Sharon Cuneta and Vice Ganda can have that.

1 / 3
  • Coheed and Cambria recall ‘overwhelmingly positive’ response from Pinoy fans

    Pinoy Rocks - Wed, May 15, 2013 7:40 AM PHT

    Amoranto Stadium in Quezon City now holds the distinction as the summer metal capital of the Philippines. For most of the past 13 years, the biggest and loudest concert, the Summer Slam, hosts its annual noisefest of local and international … Continue reading →

  • Being starstruck by Deftones

    Being starstruck by Deftones

    omg! Philippines News Blog - Wed, May 15, 2013 6:49 AM PHT
    Being starstruck by Deftones

    There’s something about this band that makes you forget you’re a professional. I am normally focused on my picture-taking tasks, but hey, if Ian Tayao couldn't resist being a fanboy, how could I?

  • Sarah and Bamboo should be together, ASAP!

    Sarah and Bamboo should be together, ASAP!

    omg! Philippines News Blog - Tue, May 7, 2013 10:31 AM PHT
    Sarah and Bamboo should be together, ASAP!

    It was an ordinary Sunday. We thought the noontime TV variety show “ASAP” would be presenting its usual fare of performances last May 5. We were wrong. As the introduction came heralding “The Voice of the Philippines” judges, we saw … Continue reading →

  • PART 2: Metal music is for fans

    omg! Philippines News Blog - Thu, May 2, 2013 5:14 PM PHT

    There are as many styles of metal as there are all sorts of fans. Just ask these bands.

  • PART 1: Pulp Summer Slam bands: ‘Metal labels are for magazine writers’

    omg! Philippines News Blog - Thu, May 2, 2013 4:29 PM PHT

    They couldn’t have been more different from each other. In a hotel in Quezon City. Finnish metal band Amoral, British “power-metal” kings Dragonforce, and American “post-hardcore” Circa Survive met the press for Pulp’sannual Summer Slam … Continue reading →